When I said I was going to New Mexico this August, 99% of people looked at me and asked where in Mexico I was going to be traveling to. What many people don’t realize is that New Mexico is indeed part of the United States. It’s also known as the Land of Enchantment for a reason. In this blog I’m going to show you several reasons why you need to visit New Mexico right now.
White Sands National Park, New Mexico
Did you know New Mexico is home to the largest gypsum dune field in the world? You might otherwise know it as White Sands National Park. Plan your visit using the resources here. The sands are unique here because they are comprised of the mineral gypsum which gives them their uniquely white color. There is an entry fee of $25 per vehicle to enter the park. You can use an annual National Parks Pass if you have one. The fee payment is good for up to 7 days in the park, so keep your receipt if you plan to visit multiple days in a row, and yes pets are allowed but please keep them on leash and in control.
HOW TO GET HERE
I drove to White Sands National Park from Santa Fe and this took me roughly 4 hours with one stop for gas. If you are coming from Las Cruces, White Sands is only one hour. You can also get to White Sands from Albuquerque.
WHAT TO SEE
Dunes Drive
The easiest way to see the dunes is perhaps on the Dunes Drive, an eight-mile (13 km) scenic drive, that leads from the visitor center into the heart of the gypsum dunefield. The 16-mile (26 km) round-trip drive takes approximately 45 minutes. You will want to allow additional time for taking walks in the white sand, photography, or learning about the natural and cultural history. The first four miles of Dunes Drive are paved and the last four miles are a hard-packed, gypsum road. The road is suitable for cars, motorcycles, recreational vehicles, and buses. Along the road, you will find wayside exhibits, hiking trails, picnic areas, vault toilets, and parking areas so be prepared to pull out and explore!
Hiking
There are 5 established trails so plan accordingly if you want to hike out to experience the dunes. Take more water than you think you need, a sun hat, download AllTrails maps of the area for offline use, take layers and use common sense when recreating out in the dunes.
- Interdune Boardwalk: The trail is wheelchair accessible and is a short 0.4 mile trek out into the dunes via a wooden boardwalk.
- Playa Trail: The marked with green trail markers and is an easy 0.5 mile level hike through the playa. The majority of the year, the playa is a dry lakebed.
- Dune Life Nature Trail: The trail is marked with blue trail markers and is considered a “moderate” 1 mile roundtrip hike through the dunes.
- Backcountry Camping Trail: The trail is marked with orange trail markers and is 2 miles roundtrip. This is the same trail used to get to the backcountry campsites mentioned in the camping section below. On this trail you will hike over several steep dunes.
- Alkali Flat Trail: The trail is marked with red trail markers and is considered the most difficult hike at the park. It is 5 miles round trip and is a strenuous trek up and down sand dunes the entire way.
DAYS NEEDED TO SEE THIS PARK
You can literally see this park in half a day or one day or spread it out over two days if you’re camping here as there is nowhere close by to stay. The closest place I found was in Las Cruces, New Mexico, in a lovely hotel called Encanto de Las Cruces, which is cozy and comfortable.
If you have a few hours
If you have a few hours, then head to the park at sunset, especially if you’re visiting in the summer months so you can avoid the extreme heat. If you arrive around 5pm, you can drive around and explore the dunes at the Alkali Flat trail.
One day itinerary
If you have an entire day in White Sands National Park, then choose from the 5 hiking trails listed above. You could possibly do 1, 2, 3, and then some of 5 for sunset.
WHERE TO STAY AT WHITE SANDS NATIONAL PARK
If backcountry camping is open then this is a great option. Currently, it appears to be closed. You can also stay just an hour away at Encanto de Las Cruces.
Bisti Badlands, New Mexico
When you visit New Mexico, THIS is definitely a place to see if you want to experience an otherworldly environment. Wind and rain has shaped rocks into unusual forms here at Bisti Badlands. It’s high desert wilderness at its most epic! The Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness area covers 45,000 acres of badlands just south of Farmington, New Mexico.
HOW TO SEE BISTI
The badlands of New Mexico are vast and you can get lost exploring them. To safely explore, contact this family-owned Navajo tour company. Not only are you supporting the local Navajo people, you can focus on your photography or just enjoying the scenery vs worrying about navigation, spotty cell connections and trying to make sure you find all the right things to see here.
WHERE TO STAY
I stayed at the cutest inn in Farmington, just 45 minutes away from the Badlands called Casa Blanca. Say hi to Becky, the live-in innkeeper who makes delicious quiche for breakfast. It was probably the tastiest quiche of my life and Becky is a special lady for sure. She even makes her own green/red chile sauce. The rooms are just lovely, large and spacious. The open courtyard in the middle with the fountain and the large backyard space is truly zen-like. Highly recommend a night here after Bisti Badlands.
Vermejo, New Mexico
When people think of New Mexico, most just think of a desert like environment. But deep in northern New Mexico lies a spectacular nature & adventure reserve called Vermejo. A Ted Turner reserve, Vermejo is a place of conservation, a place to disconnect, a place to find yourself and a place to just be. Treat yourself, and book 2 nights here, and thank me later.
Known as the jewel of northern New Mexico, Vermejo reminds me of a national park. It is home to a wide variety of wildlife including elk, bison, black bears, and mountain lions. During my time there, I saw elk, bison, and a variety of birds. Whether riding horseback through open fields, exploring turn-of-the-century charcoal kilns, or fly fishing for Rio Grande cutthroat trout, Vermejo has something for everyone.
HOW TO GET TO VERMEJO
I flew into Albuquerque and rented a car and drove 4 hours north to Vermejo. It’s an easy drive and while Vermejo is located in the middle of nowhere, this is what makes the place so stunning and worth it.
WHERE TO STAY
Vermejo has different types of accommodations. Whether you’re looking for an intimate historic cottage, an eco-friendly mountaintop lodge, or even a turn-of-the-century mansion, Vermejo has the ideal accommodation to match both your party size and preferences. I stayed at Casa Grande, which actually used to be Ted’s private residence! Imagine staying in a stone mansion, walking through the marble column hallways, or playing billiards in the billiards room. You’ll feel transported to an elegant 1920s soirée. Casa Grande is available to book per room, or as a full buyout.
You can also stay at one of the charming guest cottages or in a lodge type accommodation.
WHAT TO DO
I suggest you pick a few of the activities and really immerse yourself in the outdoors. Take up fly fishing, canoeing, definitely do a high-country horse ride and end with a sundowner (this is absolutely magical). Or, you can even try a via ferrata, followed by a hike and a wildlife safari to see bison, elk, bears and more! The food is prepared sustainably with some of it being sourced from their vegetable garden and the meat…well, welcome to bison which is leaner and better for you than beef! Executive chef Giovanni Lanzante and his staff will prepare succulent Modern American dishes with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients and bold Southwestern gusto and you can also request foods based on your dietary needs.
Las Vegas, New Mexico
From Vermejo, I recommend you drive over to Las Vegas, which is roughly two and a half hours. Everyone talks about Taos or Santa Fe, but I want to talk about Las Vegas. That’s right, there’s a Las Vegas in New Mexico. And it’s absolutely worth a visit and is an underappreciated gem. It’s got the vibe of a roaring railroad town with attractions like the Montezuma Castle, the Montezuma hot springs, the Dawn Light Sanctuary, and its main plaza with over 100 historic homes. Think old Wild West vibe.
I unexpectedly fell for Las Vegas. And here’s why I recommend you spend the night as you stop over from Vermejo toward Albuquerque or Santa Fe.
WHY YOU NEED TO VISIT LAS VEGAS
This town in New Mexico used to be a booming railroad town in the late 19th century, a hideout for bank robbers, a stopover for gunslingers,and a filming location for more than a century of movies and television shows and therefore still retains that old West vibe. It’s non-touristy, authentic, quirky fun and utterly charming. While the town had originally been set up in classic New Mexico style, with small adobe homes, the late 19th century saw a wide range of architectural styles: in some parts of town, Victorian houses dominate; in others you’ll see Queen Anne, Mission Revival and Italianate buildings. Most of these buildings are still intact today, and over 900 buildings here are now listed on the national Register of Historic Places!
WHERE TO STAY
Don’t miss a stay at the lovely Castañeda. The Castañeda was built in 1898 and was Fred Harvey’s first trackside hotel – the beginning of America’s first hospitality empire. The hotel is roughly 30,000 sq ft, plus a 500 foot long arcade wrapping the entire east facade and courtyard. There is also a basement under the north wing for kitchen supplies, under the south wing for boilers and mechanical equipment, and a huge attic, which was uninsulated and never used. The Santa Fe Railway mainline ran directly in front, connecting Las Vegas New Mexico to Chicago and Los Angeles. You can still see the railroad from your room. The hotel is close to the Plaza Hotel and old town. In fact the entire area around the hotel is a registered historic district as most of the buildings were constructed in the late 1800s.
WHAT TO SEE
Plaza Park
The town square, Plaza Park, was where the town had been founded in 1835, following the typical Spanish-colonial model. The green space is filled with leafy trees and wooden statues, all centered around a gazebo in the middle of the park where a Mexican mariachi band often plays live music. The entire town feels like a movie set. Don’t miss Bridge Street, named one of the great streets in America! Stroll along and admire the wonderful architecture here. Get a free map that is handed out by the Visitor Center stroll all of Las Vegas’ historic places and landmarks and different historic districts. In addition to the Park Plaza and Bridge Street District and the Railroad District, the Douglas/6th Street is a third historic district.
Hot Springs
One of the great natural hot springs in the country, these hot springs are across the road and are free to the public! Three groupings of hot springs has been diverted into rustic cement and rock pools and tubs along the side of the road. Pools and tubs range in size and temperature, and with a little experimenting, you can find the perfect soak, although I found most to be very very hot.
Directions: From the Plaza Hotel in Las Vegas, NM go approx. 5 miles northwest on Hot Springs Road. Watch for signs on the right side of the road just past the 1882 power plant and tower across from the Montezuma Castle – United World College.
Montezuma Castle
Click here to visit the Montezuma Castle. After your castle visit, head to the Dawn Light Sanctuary and the hot springs. The castle used to be a glorious resort for thousands of visitors who sought out the healing waters of the nearby hot springs and the fresh mountain air. By the early 1900s, however, the era of the grand American resort hotel had waned. The hotel closed, and passed through a series of owners before the property was purchased in 1981 by philanthropist Armand Hammer, who transformed the grounds into what is now UWC-USA.
UWC-USA is an international boarding school that serves nearly 240 students ages 16-19 from more than 90 different countries; they come to Montezuma to learn to become tomorrow’s change-agents and peacemakers. The campus is one of 17 United World Colleges around the globe, and the only UWC in the United States.
Dawn Light Sanctuary
Open daily from sunrise to sunset, the DLS is a unique place to visit and indulge in some self-care aka meditation and healing in New Mexico. The orientation and geometry of the building are derived from its alignment to the sun, moon, and stars. Projecting from a circular core are two apses each containing six large prisms mounted in sloping windows to capture light rays from sunrise to sunset, that can promote a beautiful, calm and serene atmosphere conducive to meditation.
WHERE TO EAT
Surprisingly, Las Vegas, New Mexico has some really fun, artsy restaurants and its business owners are no less interesting, bold, and create themselves! The cuisine is delicious and liberally uses the green and red chiles that the state is so well known for. In fact, throughout New Mexico, be prepared for servers to ask you this question, “Red, green, or christmas?”. If you choose christmas then you’re asking for both the red and green chile sauce.
Charlie’s Spic & Span
This might win the award for the most popular restaurant in Las Vegas, if not the award for the most fun decor! And oh let’s not forget the tortilla machine! The name reflects the owner Charlie Sandoval and fun fact, the building once housed a laundromat, hence the reference to “Spic & Span” in the title.
Definitely try the Sopapilla for breakfast and do not miss out on the apple fritters, probably the tastiest I’ve ever had in my life! Charlie’s not only specializes in Northern New Mexican foods prepared fresh daily, but some of the very best (and generously sized) pastries in New Mexico–biscochitos, cream filled long johns, donuts, cinnamon buns, brownies and so much more. Several hundred tortillas are prepared on a daily basis. You can purchase them by the dozen and these are known to be the best tortillas in Las Vegas. This restaurant is a sensory overload and is awash in color – think tin ceilings, distressed wood floors, formica floors and larger than life paintings and plaster casts of donuts! Oh and a painting of a woman covered in whipped cream. I felt like I was in a scene from the Meow Wolfe exhibit!
The Skillet
The skillet is such a funky spot to visit with a great outdoors patio and some fun cocktails! Just like Charlie’s, the decor is 3d, quirky and authentic, very much reflective of the artist and owner, Isaac Sandoval. Yes his father owns Charlie’s! Be sure to try the Orange Chicken Burrito, Green Chile Fries and a Giant Rice Crispy Treat or try their famous Green Chile Skillet Burger and Elote fries. I had the Cauliflower Tacos which were the best I’ve ever had, followed by the Green Chile Fries and the Giant Rice Crispy Treat was to die for.
Grand Plaza
The Prairie Hill Cafe inside this Grand Plaza hotel took me by surprise. Wait, this is Las Vegas, New Mexico?! I had the BEST blue corn enchiladas here, better than what I sampled in Santa Fe or Albuquerque. Restaurant owners Sara Jo Mathews and Ryan Snyder are the ones responsible for this burst of culinary activity on the historic hotel’s first floor. They both come from families with long histories in the area. “Local tastes better. It’s not just an advertising pitch, we live it,” she said. “We buy as much local produce as we can–every opportunity we have to buy local, we do. The beef that you eat is raised five miles from where you sit.” Read more about the cafe here. Visit the Prairie Hill Cafe facebook page for menu specials and updates.
Castañeda
You cannot leave Las Vegas, without stepping into Castañeda. I highly recommend you spend the night at this historic Fred Harvey hotel with incredibly cool decor. But if you’re just day tripping from Santa Fe, then be sure to have dinner here so you can experience the restaurant.
Albuquerque, New Mexico
When planning your visit to New Mexico, chances are you’ll either fly into Albuquerque or Santa Fe. I flew into Albuquerque because I found the best, most direct flights into this city from San Francisco and Oakland.
WHERE TO STAY
Stay at the hipster El Vado on Route 66 and walk 15 minutes to old town. Or stay at the Hotel Albuquerque at old town and walk 4 minutes into old town as well as New Mexico’s first food-hall market, the Sawmill. Both hotels boast a pool and on-site restaurants and good, clean rooms.
WHERE TO EAT
I would first begin at the Sawmill market, a food-hall that absolutely floored me with the variety in cuisine and restaurants! Next, I’d stop over at old town and try any of the restaurants around there and spend some time in the green, leafy plaza, listening to Mariachi bands/men singing on a hot afternoon. Not many know this, but New Mexico is one of the oldest wine regions in the country. No joke, but New Mexico’s wine country dates back to 1629 when vines were smuggled in from Spain and planted by monks along the banks of the Rio Grande for sacramental and celebratory wines.
To understand more, I invite you to visit the Sheehan winery tasting room in old town and be prepared to have your mind blown with some delicious New Mexico wines.
WHAT TO SEE
If you only have 24 hours in Albuquerque, please see this:
Sandia Peak Tramway
The Sandia Peak Tramway is a fun tram ride to one of America’s most stunning urban peaks. Imagine gliding up in a tram to the 10,378-foot crest of the Sandia Mountains! It’s an elevation of the body, mind, and soul in a mere 15 minute ride. I’m scared of heights and can say this was absolutely epic and I felt safe the whole time. You can either rent a car and drive to the parking lot of the tramway attraction or take an uber (this is the option I chose since I couldn’t pick up my rental car until later).
Indian Pueblo Cultural Center
The Indian Pueblo Cultural Center is a must visit. You will learn the history behind New Mexico from a historical and cultural standpoint and this is an immersive experience that will give you a better understanding of this state, as well as a more clear lens from which you’ll be able to experience New Mexico during your visit. For example, you will learn that New Mexico has 19 official Pueblo tribes and the exhibits will walk you through their history both past and present.
I am not so much into museums and I thoroughly enjoyed my visit here, plus I got to eat lunch before entering the museum, at the Indian Pueblo Kitchen. This restaurant is special because it’s owned and operated by the 19 Pueblos and features the flavors of the Native communities. I absolutely loved the blue corn enchiladas, the blue corn onion rings, the blue corn porridge and the native superfoods waffles loaded with pinon seeds among other ingredients!
You’ll also have an opportunity to meet some of the Pueblo artisans outside the museum and if you like any of the pottery or art they are selling, please support and buy some pieces as I did for my home.
Old Town
Who doesn’t love a good ol’ fashioned old town right? This one is no less charming. It feels less touristy than Santa Fe, more authentic, and you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Albuquerque’s old town’s narrow streets and century-old adobe houses are home to New Mexican eateries serving enchiladas and sopaipilla pastries, and tiny artisan shops selling jewelry, rugs and pottery. Old Town Plaza is a charming spot overlooked by 18th-century San Felipe de Neri Church. Nearby, the New Mexico Museum of Natural History and Science has dinosaur skeletons, while the Albuquerque Museum displays Southwestern art.
Balloon Festival
If you can make it to Albuquerque in October, time it so you can attend the famous balloon festival in New Mexico!
Santa Fe, New Mexico
From Albuquerque, Santa Fe is a mere one hour drive. Santa Fe is like a well oiled machine and hence what I’d call a touristy destination. This doesn’t take away from what the town has to offer and here is what I enjoyed while in Santa Fe for two nights:
WHERE TO STAY
When in Santa Fe, you can either stay IN old town OR do what I did and stay about 15 minutes away (by car) at the Ojo Santa Fe Spa Resort. It’s a wellness place where you can immerse in sound therapy, meditation and the most divine heated soaking tubs in spring-fed waters for respite and healing. You will not regret the benefits of hydrotherapy in the spring-fed thermal pools, all while dining on farm-fresh cuisine and connecting with nature at this beautiful place. The rooms are large and spacious with balconies. I spent my time soaking in the Sages pool, as well as the heated outdoor soaking tubs by the spa. I also indulged in a private soak in an outdoor soaking pool and this was divine and gave me time to just zone out and connect with myself and nature!
WHERE TO EAT
Apothecary
This place right in old town, is the type of place I wish we had in San Francisco, but don’t have currently. The emphasis is on healing and they also have a day spa. Try brunch, lunch or dinner and finish with the oxygen spa for 15-30 minutes. I got the peppermint essential oils and it was wonderful. There is a good variety of vegan/vegetarian dishes and the restaurant focuses on nutrient-rich fusion food and believes in a healthy twist on the traditional. Try their teas and cocktails and let me know what you think!
The Shed
What a cute restaurant in old town! Perfect to come with your family or for date night. Walk-in only, put your name down and wander around old town. Choose to sit in the outdoors patio or inside where the decor is colorful with lovely traditional paintings. Food is traditional New Mexican and the flan for dessert is delicious. People wait in line for hours for their blue corn enchiladas so definitely try them!
Cafe Pasqual’s
I highly recommend this spot for brunch in old town! Located in a charming, historic building, the food is delicious and the vibe is A+.
La Fonda
The best place to witness a red Santa Fe sunset is at La Fonda in old town. Go by 4pm if you want a table outside on the rooftop and enjoy drinks and appetizers as you watch the sun go down. The sunsets in New Mexico can be spectacular so get ready with your camera!
Maria’s New Mexican Kitchen
This restaurant is not in old town but only about a 10 minute ride away. I love the table side guac preparation, don’t miss this and the cuisine is traditional New Mexican food. It’s a cozy family hangout spot with great margaritas.
WHAT TO SEE
Santa Fe, New Mexico’s capital, sits in the Sangre de Cristo foothills. It’s renowned for its Pueblo-style architecture and as a creative arts hotbed. Founded as a Spanish colony in 1610, it has at its heart the traditional Plaza. The surrounding historic district’s crooked streets wind past adobe landmarks including the Palace of the Governors, now home to the New Mexico History Museum. Here’s what to see when in Santa Fe.
- The oldest house: Known as the oldest house in the city, it’s fun to take a look here. Check it out and tell me what you think. Entrance is free.
- Loretto chapel: I loved visiting this chapel because there’s a Miraculous Staircase. The staircase has two 360 degree turns and no visible means of support. It is said that the staircase was built without nails—only wooden pegs. Questions also surround the number of stair risers relative to the height of the choir loft and about the types of wood and other materials used in the stairway’s construction. Entrance is $5, but worth it imho.
- Kakawa chocolate house: You have to stop by here and enjoy authentic chocolates elixirs in an Adobe shop. Try the wafer thin chocolate chip cookie (addictive) and their truffles. Their historic drinking chocolate elixirs include traditional Pre-Columbian, Mesoamerican, Mayan and Aztec drinking chocolate elixirs; 1600’s European drinking chocolate elixirs, Colonial American and Colonial Mexican drinking chocolate elixirs. Definitely an interesting experience for me, highly recommend.
- Canyon Road: From old, walk about 15 minutes to Canyon Road and voila, you get insight into the art world that is so integral to Santa Fe’s identity. We aren’t talking about just any old art here. This road contains fine art from artists throughout the US and the world, featuring art from traditional to abstract contemporary. You don’t even have to enter a gallery because there are so many beautiful exhibits for you to see outside each gallery on this street, it’s really unique and unlike anything I’ve seen before.
- San Miguel Chapel: It’s the oldest catholic church in the continental US, so definitely step inside for a visit. The chapel is located in the Barrio de Analco, a national historic district of Santa Fe. Oral history holds that the barrio was founded by a group of Mexican Indians from Tlaxcala.
- Meow Wolfe Exhibit: One of the best things I did in Santa Fe was this immersive exhibit. Step into a parallel universe and thank me later, it’s super fun, whether you’re with family, friends or with a date!
Itinerary
Here is my 10 day itinerary through the Land of Enchantment:
SFO/Oakland – Albuquerque – Vermejo – Las Vegas – Albuquerque – Bisti Badlands – Santa Fe – White Sands National Park – Las Cruces – El Paso, TX – SFO/Oakland. I drove into El Paso (just an hour away from Las Cruces) so I could catch my outbound flight to SFO. I dropped off the rental car here as well.
Conclusion
In conclusion, I hope I’ve showed you enough reasons why you need to put New Mexico on your bucketlist of states to visit in the US this fall, winter or spring/summer. It’s a diverse state filled with history, culture, and fantastic cuisine. This might actually be one of the most interesting states I’ve visited in the U.S. Have you been and if so what was your favorite part of this state? I hope you enjoyed reading this blog, and I look forward to your comments!
