I’ve lived in Northern California for most of my life and didn’t think there was anything new to discover in my state, until the pandemic hit in 2020. In October 2020, I set out on a road trip to explore the California Gold Country with a fellow photographer friend from San Francisco, epic7travel. Our mission? To discover the historic gold-rush towns and the surrounding outdoors just a few hours from San Francisco and the Bay Area. Here are my top recommendations to add to your California must-do list.
El Dorado County – California Gold Country
El Dorado County is known as “Gold Country” because this was where California’s first gold was discovered! If you’re visiting in October, that also means apples, donuts, cider, and pumpkin pies in El Dorado! Combine that with a summit hike to one of El Dorado County’s most recognizable peaks plus a cozy cabin stay and you have yourself a fantastic weekend getaway through California Gold County! First stop: the historic gold-rush town of Placerville.
Placerville
Gold Rush History
Just a quick 2 hour drive northeast of San Francisco will bring you to the historic gold-rush town of Placerville. This town has its roots in mining. It’s named after the placer gold deposits that were found in its river beds and hills in the late 1840s. Nicknamed “Hangtown”, it was known for its notorious reputation for vigilante justice carried out by hangings. There is no better way to experience California gold country than strolling along historic Main Street in Placerville. Walk into Historic Cary House Hotel to feel the remnants of the gold-rush era. Past guests include people like Elvis Presley! Locals believe the hotel is haunted and one guest even recounted how she saw a rocking chair moving numerous times as she walked down the hallway to her room from the lobby. I didn’t observe any paranormal activity, but go see for yourself!
What to see
You’ll notice the buildings in Main Street still retain their 19th century heritage reflective in the architecture. Places like the Placerville Hardware is a must visit. Nicknamed the “the oldest Hardware Store West of the Mississippi”, I’ve never seen a hardware store like this in my life! I also stepped back in time when I entered Bowtie Barbershop, the coolest barber shop ever. Right from the decor to the hot towels, to the chairs, you won’t regret the visit, even if you don’t want a haircut. Across from the Cary House Hotel is Winterhill Olive Oil. Pandemic tastings include just the olive oil (minus the bread). Try their orange flavored olive oil – the owner, Lisa, says it’s perfect to make brownies! One of many businesses that pivoted during the pandemic, Lisa offers curbside pickup and ships a lot more now than ever before. She says a face mask is mandatory to enter her shop. “If you don’t have one don’t come in” is her motto.
Dedrick’s Cheese is a specialty cheese shop that has also pivoted during the pandemic. They conduct stringent cleaning in the mornings before they open and encourage face masks to be worn inside the store. Dora, the lady who’s worked there for a year now says Placerville used to be the town she would come up to from Cupertino to “get away”.
Where to eat
Strolling a few blocks down will bring you to one of the prettiest restaurants in California Gold Country: Sweetie Pie’s. Grab a seat in the outside patio of this quaint historic home and indulge in one of their delicious pies post breakfast or lunch!
Hot Cider and Apple Crisps
As you leave Placerville, stop by at the Apple Hill Growers Association. A collection of 50 local, family farms, we tasted some amazing Apple crisps at the Larsen Apple Barn and Bakeshop! Their hot cider was perfect for October weather and outdoor seating is limited but available.
Where to stay in El Dorado County
Feeling stuffed, we set out to explore a different side of the California Gold Country – South Lake Tahoe. Our destination was Camp Richardson where a cozy cabin awaited us, complete with outdoor seating, a grill, and a view of the lake! The two bedroom cabin was spacious and warm and the perfect place to stay in preparation for our 10,000ft summit hike to Mt. Tallac the next day morning.
Experience the outdoors
The hike is approximately 10 miles long and passes through two pretty lakes: Floating Island Lake and Cathedral Lake. You will need hiking poles on the way down and boots with ankle support to cross over a patch of boulders. The summit itself can be very windy – make sure to have a wind resistant jacket and/or a down jacket. Mt. Tallac is in the Desolation Wilderness and thus requires a wilderness permit even for the day hike. This is available at the trailhead. You are also in bear country so be aware and pack your food/snacks really well inside your daypack.
Where to eat in Lake Tahoe
Artemis Lakefront Cafe offers delicious Greek food (including vegetarian options). Alpina Coffee Cafe is too cute to pass up (we got our breakfast and lunch to-go for the hike from here). Orchid Thai is another great option for some fantastic Thai food (we did a pick up order here since they don’t have outdoor seating).
Hope Valley
After a good night’s sleep we woke up refreshed and checked out of Camp Richardson to continue our California Gold Country road trip toward Hope Valley to catch a last glimpse of fall colors. An hour and a half later, we were amply rewarded. Most of the leaves had fallen but there were still a few beautiful Aspens remaining on I-89 on the road to Wylder Hotel, Hope Valley.
Amador County – California Gold Country
Known as the “Heart of the Mother Lode”, Amador County lies within the California Gold Country and is just about 50 minutes away from Hope Valley. Amador County might be one of the smallest counties in California, but during the gold rush it was one of the most economically robust towns in the West. Immigrants came from far and wide for the promise of work…and gold!
Sutter Creek & Jackson
Gold Rush History
In the heart of Amador County lies the two historic towns of Sutter Creek and Jackson. Sutter Creek used to be packed with saloons, world-class hotels and small businesses serving miners and immigrants who came to the region looking for gold. Most never found gold here, but they found other things. The Italian immigrants realized the Shenandoah Valley was an ideal spot for growing grapes so they got into wine making. And hence, Amador was actually California’s first wine region. Serbian immigrants put down their own roots and now Amador is home to North America’s oldest Serbian Orthodox church. In fact, a stroll down Jackson’s main street will bring you face to face with a cute Serbian bakery!
Wine, Olive Oil Tasting & Antique Stores
Today, a stroll down Sutter Creek’s downtown must involve some olive oil tasting, wine tasting and plenty of boutique shopping. You’ll notice the main street is lined with 19th century balconied buildings. Sutter Creek might very well be California Gold Country’s prettiest and most walkable town! It also serves as the perfect base from which to explore the surrounding Sierra Foothill wine regions including Shenandoah Valley, El Dorado County’s Fairplay region and Calaveras County’s wine region. Nearby Jackson is smaller but filled with equally charming antique and vintage shopping. I recommend you spend a day visiting both towns and drive on to what I predict will soon become the Carmel of Calaveras County: the small town of Murphys.
Tasting Rooms Cute Boutiques Cafes & Antique Shops
Calaveras County – California Gold Country
Just about 50 minutes away from Sutter Creek, between Lake Tahoe and Yosemite National Park, lies a little town called Murphys, also in California Gold Country. It might very well be the perfect spot for wine tasting and your outdoor adventures (whether you choose Lake Tahoe or Yosemite)!
Murphys
From Mining, to Ranching, to Wine Making
Did you know Murphys was voted one of the top ten coolest small towns in America by Budget Travel Magazine? And strolling down the main street into the tasting room at Newsome Harlow Wines, I can see why! This might very well have been what Carmel looked like 20 years ago! I met with Newsome Harlow Wines’ owner and winemaker, Scott Klann’s to understand how the historic gold rush town of Murphys turned into wine country.
Newsome Harlow Wines Tasting Room
Scott has a reputation for knowing his art, and works with some of the greatest Zinfandel vineyards in the Sierra Foothills. He says Spanish varietals do great here and while you’ll find the Cabs and the Merlots, Spanish varietals and Zinfandels are the stars. He traces the history of winemaking back to the gold rush era. The Italians and French immigrants who came looking for gold brought their knowledge of winemaking and continued to produce wine here. Families that stayed on long past the gold rush segued from mining to ranching to wine making. Murhpys is home to 25 tasting rooms and some of the benefits of visiting here include interacting with small family owners who make high quality wines in small quantities, artisan style. While Scott’s tasting room is open by appointment only (in response to the pandemic), you can also order cases online. Tune into his social media for frequent live updates and virtual tastings!
Where to Shop
The Spice Tin: Who would have through I could find a spice shop in California Gold Country?! The Spice Tin has a wide variety of spices from all over the world, including cute gift baskets. Don’t miss the nearby Moon Alley candle shop if you enjoy hand crafted candles. The artwork on these candles are so unique and eye-catching, I purchased two – one to be gifted!
Moon Alley Candles Hand Crafted
Where to Stay
Murphys old town has a plethora of quaint inns and airbnbs in old town. If you want a hotel, opt for the Murphys Suites (about 10 minutes from downtown). As soon as you enter the hotel, the lobby has a table with sanitizer. Use that before you approach the front desk (covered by a shield). Once you’ve checked in, grab your keys and head to your rooms. The rooms are a bit worn and outdated but it’s a great stopover option between Lake Tahoe and Yosemite. As in all hotels/airbnbs, we went the extra step and wiped down the rooms/side tables/door handles using our own wipes.
Where to Eat
A lot of up and coming chefs who aren’t able to afford the city (San Francisco) are opening up restaurants in California Gold Country. And that’s why you’ll find one of the best Italian restaurants here, Sarafina’s Italian Kitchen. Located about 10 minutes away from downtown Murphys, Sarafina’s has an outdoor heated patio. Try the Puttanesca, it is to die for! They also have some good vegetarian options.
Experience the Outdoors
Calaveras Big Trees State Park
Just 20 minutes away from Murphys in California Gold Country, lies the Calaveras Big Trees State Park. The coolest feature in this park is being able to walk through the world’s largest tree! Home to the world’s largest trees – the giant sequoias – the Calaveras Big Trees State Park preserves two groves of giant sequoias in the North and South Groves. The park is a mixed-conifer forest (a variety of trees living together). We chose to hike the 1.5 mile self-guided North Grove trail loop early morning to admire these beauties. When the news of these giant trees first spread amongst people, many were in disbelief that such giant trees could even exist. Hence the largest tree was cut down (it took 5 men and 22 days) and sections of it were sent to New York and San Francisco. All that’s left of this tree is the Discovery Stump (also been used as a dance stage). Similarly you can see the Mother of the Forest, stripped of its bark in an attempt to get people to believe in these trees. To attract visitors, a tunnel was carved through yet another Sequoia! Once this place became a State Park however, no other trees have been altered.
A few things to keep in mind while exploring this state park:
- Stay on the trail – There are sections of the trail that now have a boardwalk that encourage visitors to stay on the trail. Martin Huberty, a 6th generation Calaveran and Executive Director of the Calaveras Visitors Bureau, says the boardwalk is to help protect the shallow root systems from erosion and soil compaction. He also encourages us to become part of the Calaveras Big Trees association to help conserve and preserve these trees.
- Avoid marking and climbing on trees – As you hike around this park, you’ll see people have scribbled all sorts of stuff on some of the trees. Martin also says people try to climb on the bark – which is actually easily damaged.
- Leave no trace – Litter IS harmful to wildlife,
- Leave all natural objects as is – Even a twig is important in returning nutrients to the soil.
So you say big trees aren’t your thing?! No problem. Calaveras County offers Boards Crossing – what I would call the perfect spot for unwinding with a book in your hammock. Martin Huberty accompanied us to this spot and brought his wonderful dogs that enjoyed swimming in the river, so if you have canine companions, they will thank you for bringing them here!
Tuolumne County – California Gold Country
Tuolumne County is home to two historic gold-rush towns: Sonora & Jamestown and the iconic Yosemite Valley National Park.
Sonora & Jamestown
Just 26 minutes away from Murphys lies the small town of Sonora, and just a few minutes from Sonora lies Jamestown.
Gold Rush History
Known as the “Queen of the Southern Mines”, Sonora is the perfect base for Yosemite Valley National Park, and two other State Parks: Columbia and Railtown. A stroll down Washington Street in Sonora, will take you to the town’s boutiques and restaurants. But what you may not know at first glance is that Washington Street used to be an Indian trail. The Gold Rush transformed it into a mining camp. As you walk down Washington Street today, imagine it filled with tents, and throngs of miners walking down the street. Many historic buildings from the gold rush days still remain. In its heyday, the town used to be the most ethnically diverse and cosmopolitan, with a significant number of women. The town still retains that diversity and cosmopolitan vibe today. Sonora was founded by Mexican miners, and hence you will find some really good Mexican and other ethnic foods here.
Jamestown is best known for the Railtown 1897 State Historic Park. You can actually take a tour of one of the few remaining working railroad roundhouses in America. Ride the rails with Sierra #3 that has appeared in lots of movies that have been filmed here – the most recognizable being Back to the Future.
Columbia State Historic Park is a living gold rush town. Visiting this town will give you a glimpse of what a 19th century mining town would have looked like. Strolling down the street don’t be surprised to see merchants dressed in 1850s attire, or a whiff of coal smoke from the blacksmith shop! Even though we went later in the day (around 5pm) when most of the shops were closing, we were able to get a feel for the place. I felt like I was stepping into the set of a Western movie. Don’t miss the Brown’s Coffee House and Sweets Saloon, the historic Park Hotel, Columbia Kate’s Teahouse, and the Fallon House Theater. You can even ride an actual authentic stagecoach through the town!
Experience the Outdoors
If you’re in the mood for an urban hike in California Gold Country, Dragoon Gulch is the perfect spot. A quick 20 minutes away from Washington Street is the trailhead to this 2.2 mile loop trail.
Hetch Hetchy Valley in Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Valley National Park is a mere 40 miles away from Sonora. Within this park lies the Hetch Hetchy Valley, an underrated and often overlooked part of Yosemite, but just as equally picturesque. Filled with hiking trails and bear sightings, the Hetch Hetchy Valley reservoir supplies water to San Francisco and the greater Bay Area. If you want to camp overnight in backcountry or even just want to experience a guided hike, try Echo Adventure Cooperative. Our guide Laurie was fantastic and very knowledgeable about the area. Things to keep in mind when visiting this area:
- Managed fires: You may see signs that say “managed fire do not report” – don’t report it. These are fires created to help the forest to grow back in a healthier way.
- Leave no trace: The goal is to make the land look like we have never been there. We are only visitors so don’t leave anything behind – pack out whatever you bring with you.
- Dogs on trails: Dogs are not allowed on trails as they distract and disturb the wildlife. Remember “paws on pavement” and dogs should be on a leash at all times.
Where to Stay
You will be wowed by the Royal Olive Manor in downtown Sonora, in the heart of the California Gold Country. Just within walking distance of all the main shops and restaurants, this Airbnb is actually a bed and “brunch” Victorian house run by a mother daughter duo. This place boasts an entryway fit for royalty and 4 bedrooms, a living room, a formal kitchen, a large outdoor patio and a porch up front, including a hammock and a swing in the garden.
Each of the rooms is named after the strong women that owned the house. I stayed in the Magdalene room (2 br, private bath) named after Magdalene who was actually being groomed to be a Marilyn Monroe. She however wanted to continue with designing sets (her parents were set designers). She later got married, then divorced and when she saw this Victorian home for sale and ended up buying it. The room celebrates her essence and will remind you of Hollywood. Done in Avocado and Pepto Bismol pink the main bedroom is gorgeous and has a sitting place. Little touches like photos of Magdalene adorn the room, including the mirror that was once hers.
This is a very special airbnb run by some very special women so if you visit Sonora, make sure to stay here. The ladies will make you a wonderful brunch in the dining room (you can remove your masks to eat and drink)! Mimosas and Champagne are served in the most gorgeous flutes. Trust me, you won’t regret your stay here! (Masks are mandatory when roaming around the public spaces inside the home).
Indulge in a Spa
After all our hiking in the California Gold Country, we decided it was time to indulge. And so for the very first time since the pandemic hit in March, I boldly stepped foot into the welcoming Amala Spa & Tea Lounge on Washington Street. Masks are mandatory inside. As soon as you enter, you have to sanitize using the hand sanitizer available in the entrance. You’ll be greeted by the owner, Laina, who has put her heart and soul into her business. She’s managed to survive the pandemic and has pivoted by eliminating expensive office software and by increasing her online presence.
Treatment
Amala Spa is known for its ionic detox foot soaks and readings…yes they really do a reading of your foot after the soak and it’s actually spot on! Make sure you have one of their detox teas (they have a chart that tells you which tea is good based on the ailment you are trying to address). Laina says she doesn’t accept more than 3 clients at a time, socially distanced of course in the spa chairs. I felt extremely safe, relaxed and rejuvenated.
Where to eat
If you want a burger, check out Diamondback Grill. They also have outdoor seating! If you’re in the mood for Mexican, El Arroyo is a pretty little spot next to Sonora creek. The atmosphere is romantic and cozy and the food is fantastic. Don’t forget to try nearby Jamestown for a meal. I dined at the Service Station (also has outdoor dining), a physical reminder of the transportation evolution, car culture, and pop culture! Lunch in the outside patio of the historic Jamestown’s National Hotel is best described as tranquil. They serve Mediterranean cuisine and also have rooms for rent on the second level.
Can you still find gold in gold country?!
And if you’re like me, wondering if you can still find gold in gold country, the answer is a resounding yes. Scott from Newsome Harlow Wines in Murphys says you can pan for gold in Angels Creek right behind his tasting room. 🙂 In Placerville, the locals say you can still find gold in the bend in the river 🙂 So…what are you waiting for? Load up your car…and get ready for a wonderful road trip into California Gold Country where old historic towns and the great outdoors await!
This post is sponsored by Visit California, but all opinions and reviews are my own.
43 Responses
i really enjoyed the detailed trip report and photos – going to save it for whenever we go that side. that spice store was so random
Thanks so much for reading Christ! And yes…who would have expected that store ha! Fascinating…